“He had become so caught up in building sentences that he had almost forgotten the barbaric days when thinking was like a splash of colour landing on a page.”
Edward St. Aubyn, Mother’s Milk
If you ever wonder what’s to live with the burning itch of a passion; or you’re wondering if you should pick up one; dive deep into this epic ride through a lifetime of surf, friendship, and literature and share the New Yorker staff writer need for shred.
A wave of color will invade your life, and you will feel fresh, barbaric and alive to go out there and commit to something with raw desire.
Title: Barbarian Days, A Surfing Life
Author: William Finnegan
Edited by Corsair in Great Britain, 2015.